Stones That Speak

Stones that speak GOWRI RAMNARAYAN A MARVEL OF MAHABALIPURAM: Shiva instructing his disciple Tandu who gave the name Tandava to the art. city of ponds and lakes’ A bridge with a view TOPICS arts, culture and entertainment culture (general) history After 32 years in IIT, Delhi, what inspired Professor S. Swaminathan to write about Mahabalipuram? Gowri Ramnarayan meets the engineer-turned-author How did a mechanical engineer turn into an expert in ancient monuments? How did Professor S. Swaminathan, after 32 years at IIT, Delhi produce a coffee table book on “Mahabalipuram: Unfinished Poetry in Stone” with photographs by Ashok Krishnaswamy? A casual trip to Ajanta in 1963 triggered a life-changing experience. Swaminathan realised that he had no background on the breathtaking wonders of the 29 caves. “Our monuments have become picnic spots. We have no understanding of heritage.” His anguish took positive shape when he devised a course in art and technology. “IIT is an export zone. The student’s mind is in the U.S., he knows Cincinnati, not Tiruchirapalli. But a 5,000-year-old heritage cannot be trivial! Where is identity without culture?” Five years of research on Ajanta resulted in a book with exhaustive details about every cave and fresco — location, layout, stylistic phases, politics, patronage, theme, composition, technique, pigment — even details about portrayal of women and methods of rendering limbs. He has documented Ajanta in sleeve notes that “you can enjoy sitting in the drawing room,” he laughs, admitting that “you” is really himself. Pulling out more unpublished sleeve notes and “books” he adds, “Until age 70 my name was printed only on the IIT prospectus. Now I find it on the cover of Mahabalipuram.” It was preceded by an elaborate source book and months of photography. “We’re planning a cheaper edition; the people I write for can’t buy a book for Rs. 2,500.” He continues reflectively, “I’m a loner, like doing things for myself. Nothing commercial. Whatever I find is on the public domain, on my website. Many download stuff when they travel to Ajanta or Nalanda or Sittannavasal”. The engineer in Swaminathan gravitates to the material and craft methods of the past. He probes into the growth and direction of thought in the community that shapes its art forms. “We look at the wrong end of the telescope. What we see in heritage sites is not art, but the outcome of extended meditation.” Studying a bewildering range of subjects from Tamil prosody to cartoons and Gandhian philosophy, Swaminathan is fascinated by Brahmi, the mother of all Indian and most south Asian scripts, and Grantha, developed by the Pallavas to write Sanskrit. “I dream,” said the retired professor when a man he met by chance asked, “What do you do?” He was probably thinking about cultural centre Sudarshanam, launched in hometown Pudukkottai. But the questioner, industrialist GRK Reddy, persisted in knowing more and Swaminathan found himself supported by Marg Swarnabhoomi to publish Mahabalipuram. “I’ve been given an office too, to work on any project I like.” A crucial interest is starting heritage clubs with location specific cultural study in village/district schools. The Taj Mahal is everywhere. What do we know of the greater marvels of Mahabalipuram?” asks Professor Swaminathan. “Every one of its motifs is singular, unique, no repetition. A lion with a Mahishasuramardhini carved on its stomach! Every ratham (chariot) is fashioned differently. The Arjuna Penance is the pinnacle of sculptural vision. Spare ornamentation and subtle details achieve superb classicism. Can you find a more accomplished emperor, Mahendra Pallava?” he wonders. His “Mahendra trail” of the visionary king titled Vichitrachitta, has become well-known. He has conducted courses in the old port for tourist guides, as also residence seminars involving eight hours spent daily in front of bas relief, monolith and cave. “Nowhere else do we find all three in one spot.” Swaminathan does not see himself as a scholar, but a rasika who wants to introduce what he enjoys to others. “I’m no author jumping from book to book. But I do want to write on the Kailasanatha temple, Kanchi.” No, he has not set specific goals for himself. “My greatest joy is that I have sensitised many students to the value of our heritage. Many write and say I have transformed their way of thinking. What more can I want?” The Book: Mahabalipuram: Unfinished poetry in Stone Beginning with the first cave temples excavated in south India (Mandagapattu) by Mahendra Pallava (590-630 CE), the book looks at the countless works of art scattered on the Mahabalipuram shore. To the breath stopping parade of cave shrine, bas relief, monolith and even regional flora, quaintness and riddles add spice — an inscription of a Saivite curse on a Vaishnava shrine, the mystery of the tiger cave, speculation on whether Arjuna or Bhagiratha is the central ascetic in the Great Penance… No jargon in the chatty ‘in’ style. The visual close-ups engender empathy and intimacy. What stands out is the writer’s and lensman’s eagerness to share their passion for the sweep of imagination and craft splendour in these Pallava marvels, as the author traces the legend, composition, and details on the walls. Turning the pages is to watch stone springing to life in this magnificent sculpture garden. The images of Mahendra Pallava, flanked by his queens, or cleverly representing himself and Lord Siva in the same figure at Lalitankura Pallavagriham (Rockfort, Tiruchi), establish an irresistible human interest in this saga of unnamed sthapatis who left by the rolling waves their exquisite odes to the gods, and to the human spirit. The Photographer A visual communications professor who works with some of the highest brands in India and overseas, a trainer in graphic art tools, photography, visual design and animation, Ashok Krishnaswamy was prompted by an associate’s query, “What have you done for society?” to document old temples as a quiet personal mission. As a young man Krishnaswami learnt photography at Mahabalipuram, with a cheap camera and scrounged film rolls. Despite the immense advances since then, the project posed its challenges. The Arjuna Penance bas relief had to be captured in multiple frames. Negotiating the narrow space at the Dharmaraja chariot was quite a task. The huge Govardhan panel in the Krishna mandapam? “I took each portion between the pillars and stitched them together.”

The Helping Hand

This is a good story and is true, please read it all the way through until the end! (After the story, there are some very interesting facts!): I am a mother of three (ages 14, 12, 3) and have recently completed my college degree. The last class I had to take was Sociology. The teacher was absolutely inspiring with the qualities that I wish every human being had been graced with. Her last project of the term was called, ‘Smile..’ The class was asked to go out and smile at three people and document their reactions. I am a very friendly person and always smile at everyone and say hello anyway. So, I thought this would be a piece of cake, literally. Soon after we were assigned the project, my husband, youngest son, and I went out to McDonald’s one crisp March morning. It was just our way of sharing special playtime with our son. We were standing in line, waiting to be served, when all of a sudden everyone around us began to back away, and then even my husband did… I did not move an inch… an overwhelming feeling of panic welled up inside of me as I turned to see why they had moved.. As I turned around I smelled a horrible ‘dirty body’ smell, and there standing behind me were two poor homeless men. As I looked down at the short gentleman, close to me, he was ’smiling’ His beautiful sky blue eyes were full of God’s Light as he searched for acceptance…… He said, ‘Good day’ as he counted the few coins he had been clutching.. The second man fumbled with his hands as he stood behind his friend. I realized the second man was mentally challenged and the blue-eyed gentleman was his salvation. I held my tears as I stood there with them. The young lady at the counter asked him what they wanted. He said, ‘Coffee is all Miss’ because that was all they could afford. (If they wanted to sit in the restaurant and warm up, they had to buy something. He just wanted to be warm). Then I really felt it – the compulsion was so great I almost reached out and embraced the little man with the blue eyes. That is when I noticed all eyes in the restaurant were set on me, judging my every action. I smiled and asked the young lady behind the counter to give me two more breakfast meals on a separate tray.. I then walked around the corner to the table that the men had chosen as a resting spot. I put the tray on the table and laid my hand on the blue-eyed gentleman’s cold hand.. He looked up at me, with tears in his eyes, and said, ‘Thank you.’ I leaned over, began to pat his hand and said, ‘I did not do this for you. God is here working through me to give you hope.’ I started to cry as I walked away to join my husband and son… When I sat down my husband smiled at me and said, ‘That is why God gave you to me, Honey, to give me hope…’ We held hands for a moment and at that time, we knew that only because of the Grace that we had been given were we able to give. We are not church goers, but we are believers. That day showed me the pure Light of God’s sweet love. I returned to college, on the last evening of class, with this story in hand.. I turned in ‘my project’ and the instructor read it. Then she looked up at me and said, ‘Can I share this?’ I slowly nodded as she got the attention of the class. She began to read and that is when I knew that we as human beings and being part of God share this need to heal people and to be healed. In my own way I had touched the people at McDonald’s, my son,the instructor, and every soul that shared the classroom on the last night I spent as a college student. I graduated with one of the biggest lessons I would ever learn: UNCONDITIONAL ACCEPTANCE. Much love and compassion is sent to each and every person who may read this and learn how to LOVE PEOPLE AND USE THINGS – NOT LOVE THINGS AND USE PEOPLE.